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It is difficult to know what you're doing if you do not have enough information on a subject. This is where science comes in. With this information we know what we are working with, so we can better understand the "why" behind the approach. Taking care of your hair from the beginning includes some knowledge of the subject, designed to help you, the guest, preserve, strengthen, and maintain not just your color, but the integrity of your hair during the color process and on your own at home. This section is a start to finish explanation of the "how" and "why" behind fabulous hair.
Hair is made mostly of non-living protein called keratin. Proteins are chains formed by amino acids, which are linked together and held by peptide bonds. A chain of more than 50 amino acids make a protein. There are 22 available amino acids in the universe and 19 of those are found in the hair. Disulfide bonds are 2 amino acids held together by sulfide bonds that give the hair stability and strength. Hair is composed of seventy to eighty percent proteins, ten to fifteen percent moisture, three to six percent lipids (provides a soft and supple feeling), one percent pigment, and less than one percent each of minerals and carbohydrates (holds hair cells together).
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The structure of the hair is divided into two parts, the hair root and the hair shaft. The hair root lies beneath the surface of the skin. Hair grows up through the follicle. The bottom of the follicle is called the papilla, which is known as the “living part” of hair where growth occurs and blood and nerves exist. Keratin receives the blood supply from the papilla. Soft keratin turns to hard keratin as it moves away from the blood source.
The hair shaft is made of three layers: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla. The cuticle is the translucent portion of keratin that protects the outer layer of the hair shaft. A damaged cuticle is usually caused by mechanical friction, such as combing/brushing the hair while it is wet, towel drying, using rubber bands, teasing, braiding, and using hair clips that are too tight. (See photo right, "broken cuticle.) The cortex is a softer, more flexible chains of proteins. Damage to the cortex is caused by thermal styling tools, such as irons and a blow dryer. Irons that are left on the hair or used for an excessive amount of time can actually melt the cortex. Over-exposure to the sun, over-processing of tints, relaxers, perms, and lighteners can also damage the cortex leaving the hair dry, brittle, and generally weak and susceptible to breakage. When you alter the color of the hair, this chemical change primarily occurs in the cortex. The medulla runs down the middle of the hair shaft and is not scientifically known to have any function whatsoever in humans, and in some, it may not be present at all.
Natural haircolor is related to the quantity, size, type or distribution of melanosomes, or melanin. Melanocytes help to create melanosomes in the hair bulb. Dark hair contains some melanin in the cuticle layer, while lighter hair only contains melanin in the cortex. Grey hair is caused by the gradual loss of pigment as the melanin production slows down. In white hair, melanocytes are completely absent, and neither grey, or white hair contain any warmth or depth. Most people notice grey hair starting in the temple region, and as time goes by it “migrates” usually to the crown and then the occipital area in the back of the head.
formation, texture, and density of the hair are all physical characteristics used to describe the hair. The formation of the hair is characterized by the shape of the hair as straight, wavy, or curly. The texture is defined as fine, medium, or coarse. The density is the actual number of hairs per square inch on the head. The average person has 1000 hairs per square inch, but more specifically blondes usually have 140,000, brunettes 110,000, redheads 90,000, and people with African-American hair usually average 108,000. Redheads are perceived to have more hairs on their head than most others, but the coarse texture of the hair is creating that appearance instead of the density.
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The chemical composition of at-home color kits are very different from the composition of professional haircolor. Most kits contain vegetable dyes, metallic dyes, or compound dyes. The most common vegetable dye is henna, which produces reddish highlights. No professional haircolor manufacturer uses 100% vegetable dyes. Metallic dyes are progressive, meaning they get darker with each application. Metallic dyes are the most common found in home haircolor kits and are not professional since their use is strongly not recommended due to the metals in the product not being compatible with salon chemical services. Mixing metallic dyes and professional dyes can cause discoloration and/or breakage of the hair. Depending on the metals used these types of dyes may fade into odd or unnatural shades. Compound dyes are a mixture of vegetable and metallic dyes.
Professional color utilizes oxidative or direct dyes, or a combination of both. Oxidative dyes require hydrogen peroxide with the dye to form a visible color, and are found in permanent haircolor. Alkaline agents are added to the color to swell the hair strand and to help the hydrogen peroxide penetrate the cuticle. Ammonia is the most common alkaline agent used in permanent haircolor. Hydrogen peroxide has a low, acidic pH, while ammonia has a high, alkaline pH. Natural secretions from the scalp help produce the acid mantle, which maintains the natural pH balance of 4.5 - 5.5. Once the oxidative color (alkali mixed with hydrogen peroxide) is applied to the hair, the pigment is broken down, lightening the hair. Hydrogen peroxide develops the oxidative dye molecules, creating the deposit of the color into the protein structure (cortex) of the hair. Direct dyes are pre-colored molecules and do not require oxidation. Semi-permanent color is an example of a direct dye. Demi-permanent haircolor is a combination of both oxidative and direct dyes, is less damaging than permanent oxidative dyes, and lasts longer than semi-permanent dyes.
When any permanent color is used, the effects of alkali and hydrogen peroxide will break a percentage of the disulfide bonds in the cortex of the hair. Cysteic acid is a by-product produced by the destruction of disulfide bonds in the hair, leaving the hair weakened. This is an unavoidable side effect of coloring your hair. Redken CAT (CAT meaning Cysteic Acid Treatment) is available to repair and to reinforce the overall strength of chemically treated hair. During the typical color treatment, the hair will lose ten to fifteen percent of disulfide bonds (gives moisture and strength), while high-lift and decolorizing (highlighting) services will destroy fifteen to twenty percent of disulfide bonds. Using non-professional color, or color performed by an individual that is not properly trained, in addition to not taking the steps necessary to protect your hair may cause double the amount of normal damage associated with the color service. Professional products and a properly trained stylist (such as myself) will keep the damage to a minimum, leaving you the best possible outcome.
Hair decolorizers are used when the desired results are too light to achieve with permanent haircolor alone. Hair decolorizers are primarily used for highlighting. The alkali in the decolorizers release active oxygen from the hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogen peroxide changes the melanosome structure and breaks down the melanin into fragments “diffusing” the color of the hair. The longer the decolorizer is on the hair, the more melanin is changed which will result in a higher pH in the hair, thus destroying a higher percentage of the disulfide bonds in the hair. Using the correct products in an at-home maintenance routine, as well as professional post-color treatments will keep this damage to a minimum, and will help to keep your hair healthy and soft. Hair that has been decolorized creates more than 20% more diameter of the hair, leaving it feeling fuller and thicker. Decolorized hair also has the ability to absorb more oils, and may help some individuals who have an oily scalp and hair.
To achieve optimal results from haircolor and texture services, its important that the hair is in acceptable condition and is free from left over product residue or mineral buildup, or a combination of both. Hair is exposed to water, styling products, swimming pools, and well water will damage the condition, and porosity. Generally this negatively effect how the hair responds to the chemical reaction introduced by haircolor or permanent waves.
Pre-treating the hair before a color service prepares and strengthens the hair for the service. Pre-Art pre-treatment is a professional treatment only and it contains an auto protectant polymer that attracts to porous areas to ensure the best color deposit. It conditions while using fruit and amino acids to strengthen the cuticle to help lock color in and to add shine. Chelating agents surround minerals and other build-up, making them easily removable. These minerals include iron, aluminum, lead, sulfur, and copper. Most or all of those minerals are present in everyday water. Traces of sodium in the hair (usually from sweat) can cause the dye to bind the hair too quickly, causing the color to go too dark, somtimes close to black. Pre-treating the hair removes these minerals. I apply Pre-Art to nearly all of my guests before their color service to ensure the best results, shine, and condition from the color.
Redken Haircolor is exclusively professional and is used in salons only. ShadesEQ is the demi-permanent line offered and used to enhance, enrich, change, match, tone, or intensify your color. Shades EQ has no ammonia and provides outstanding condition and shine using wheat amino acids to lock in moisture and silicone to give the hair shine. ShadesEQ has been voted #1 demi-permanent color* by haircolorists worldwide. Redken permanent color lines contain UV stable, long lasting dyes that are resistant to fading, with wheat proteins, ceramides to seal the surface, avocado oil to condition, and coconut oil to act as a barrier to water and to create vibrancy. Shimmer One is Redken’s ammonia-free, permanent color with luminizing dye molecules that create long lasting shine, mango butter to moisturize, and rice protein to protect and strengthen. Shimmer One adds more shine every time you use it. The various decolorizers contain natural emollients, natural oat proteins and hydrolyzed sweet almond protein that minimizes static and flyaway, preserves moisture and makes it easier to detangle. Redken color and decolorizers are ultra conditioning to give you superior color, texture and exceptionally healthy hair every time you visit the salon.
With the pre-treatment, color service, and Chemistry System post-treatment to reinforce the condition of the hair, while using Redken’s Color Extend home maintenance products, your hair will remain as healthy as it could possibly be. For the time and the money that is spent on coloring your hair, it’s vital to make sure it lasts, and that it looks and is truly healthy.
*behindthechair.com 2001-2006
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